Wiring my 900S

    The accessory block was what seemed like a big feature for the new RZR so when I found the  battery and ground terminals where not connected I was a little surprised. Then accessory wire is a small wire and although I love that it stays hot for a few seconds after the switch is turned off I wouldn't want to put much load on it so I wired up a fuse box under the hood and a neutral block under the dash for all my accessories. I put the fuse block under the hood for easy access and the ground block under the dash so it and the ground wires are out of sight and out of mind. And I powered the fuse block with a mnuel reset circuit breaker so if anything happens I will loose all power to my accessories but all the factory components will not be affected.

For my RZR I installed a manual reset circuit breaker from the local autozone under the seat by the battery and then run 6 gauge wire (strait from the battery for the ground and from the circuit breaker for the the hot) up to the fuse and ground blocks and then I ran a wire from there to the factory installed block. I ran this 6 gauge wire under the console and along the factory harness all the way to the fuse block under the hood using quality zip ties to attach it to the factory wiring ever couple inches along the way. For my fuse block I had a marine block on the cabinet that had been there for a while so I don't remember where I got it but it has six fuses and a light on each fuse that lights up if the fuse blows for a quick and easy find. For my ground block I picked up a Blue sea 100 amp bus bar. Both my fuse block and neutral block have a cover on them and although the fuse block has a pretty good cover honestly I don't know how long the cover on the ground block will last which is another good reason to put the ground block under the dash so it sees less abuse from the elements.

I mounted the fuse block under the hood beside the factory block where it is easy to access if an issue arises on the trail but for my neutral/ground block I mounted it under the dash on the power steering support bracket. The support bracket already had one hole in it at a good location so I mounted the block to that hole and drilled another hole for the other mounting point. For the fuse block I had to drill two holes in the firewall but it wasn't a big issue for me and with the hood and dash cover off it was easy to see I wasn't going to hurt anything by drilling the holes.

For my switches I went to UTVINC and picked up a horn switch and a light bar switch. My horn was off an older ford pickup and had a one wire hock up so it was real simple to wire but for my lights it was a little more difficult. For my lights I have a Baja Designs 8" onyx and a 30" double row from Showlights. My 8" onyx don't draw a lot of amps but with it and the 30" combined it would have been to much for the 20 amp switch I got from UTVINC so I ran the 30" off a relay and the 8" strait to the switch. The relay came with the 30" light along with all the wiring so it was real simple to install, especially since Polaris had the holes pre drilled in the cage and the body plastics. I plan on adding a few more accessoies later but with this setup it should be real easy to add them as I go.

Feel free to e-mail me with any questions: Neil@mudandgutsoffroad.org